To simplify, let’s look at the lady on the right in her aubergine ruffled confection.
Layers needed to complete this 1862 look:
Chemise
Drawers
Corset
Underpetticoat – simple if desired but not necessary
Hoop Skirt or Wire Crinoline
Ruffled Petticoat and Plain Petticoat – minimum, can have 1-2 more
Skirt of wool or silk (This dress as styled would not be made in cotton.)
Bodice, fitted with front darts; very wide pagoda sleeves
Undersleeves in delicate cotton (preferred) or linen
Collar in lace or fine cotton (As a mid- to upper class ensemble, the collar should match the undersleeves in design.)
Spoon Bonnet with low crown around the head and wide ribbon ties
I have a question about all these hoops. When I first began reenacting (more years ago than I wish to share) hoops during the day were a no-no. I was told decent women only wore then on Sunday to church and after dark. In recent years that all apparently has changed. I see women at events wearing hoops properly and improperly, but they all seem to be wearing them. Even the laundresses. It’s very confusing for someone who left reenacting when few women were involved to return now and not know who has it right and who doesn’t. Personally, I prefer to get as close to accurate as I can.
Hi Katy,
I’m no longer involved with Civil War reenacting, but hoops were worn by women during the day. If one is working over a fire pit all day, a smaller hoop is advised rather than several petticoats. I have a few thoughts on wearing the hoop in this post. I would recommend you talk with those in groups in your area for how they view hoop wearing and what their own guidelines are for living history events. Every group will have variances in clothing for demonstration.
One of the big pattern companies issued a pattern for the aubergine dress, about 10 years ago.
I do believe that pagoda sleeves were mostly out by 1862. I think that coat sleeves or bishop sleeves would have been much more common at this time. Pagodas are more of a 1850’s things and stuck around for 1860 and the first part of 1861. Also, most bodices were basted to the skirt so that one need only to put on the garment as if it were a one piece dress.
But I do love that fru-fru blue and pink wrapper in that fashion plate! Very nice!
Not so sure about the underpetticoat being optional necessary – I have seen waaay too many hoops swing up accidentally, revealing a lot more leg that I personally wanted to see! LOL I truly don’t think people realize how much the hoop does move. Even if a lady is properly sedate, just descending from a carriage or wagon has all kinds of potential hazards that an underpetticoat could assist with in trying to maintain dignity.
Love your site. Thanks!
I would love to wear this dress. This is when ladies were ladies. Nower days ladies are ladettes.
…and Corset.
But of course! Don’t have a clue how I forgot that.